ASK PAUL ARCHIVE
I am considering purchasing a new '06 Cadillac DTS and wondering if you are going to do a review on it prior to its scheduled introduction in a few months. The car shown at the Chicago Auto Show is advertised with a 290-294 HP engine. My '04 DTS is 300 HP. Why the decrease? Is it fuel economy, pollution control or something else that causes the difference? I noticed the '05 has also been downsized in the horsepower rating.
Answers have been skinny from GM and all I’m able to get is sales literature. Can you help?
Jim S.
I suspect that I’ll be invited to a pre-launch program for the new DTS sometime over the summer before the car is released to the public, so yes, I’ll be able to give everyone my impressions of the new features and how it performs. The car was first revealed in limo form when GM presented a stretched-out and heavily armored version to President Bush at his second inaugural. Since I don’t think you’ll need bullet-proof glass, we’ll test the one with normal trappings.
As for your horsepower question, there’s a bit of mystery, voodoo and engineers (always a dangerous combination!) to blame—or explain.
Upon speaking with GM, part of the reason for the lower horsepower rating has to do with some new standards the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) put into place for testing engines.
While information is still being assembled for the DTS, the same questions were raised about the horsepower ratings of the new Corvette ZO6. Because of that, GM semi-simplified the explanation by becoming the first manufacturer to certify its
horsepower and torque rating using the new SAE test procedure J2723. The 7.0L LS7 engine for the 2006 Corvette Z06 is the first to be certified under the new test procedure at 505 horsepower @ 6300 rpm and 470 lb-ft @ 4800 rpm.
"The new voluntary SAE power and torque certification procedure ensures
fair, accurate ratings for horsepower and torque as it uses third-party
certification," said Jim Queen, GM vice president, global engineering and
the general chair for the 2005 SAE World Congress. "SAE technical standards
level the playing field and this certification procedure is just the latest
example of the value SAE has offered over the past century."
"We're very proud to be the first to certify engines with the new procedure
and pleased with the LS7 certification results," said Tom Stephens, group
vice president of GM Powertrain. "Going forward, GM will certify its
engines to the new procedure as we want customers to have accurate
information when they make a purchase decision. GM encourages all
manufacturers to do the same."
The SAE could probably give you a complete rundown of exactly how the new
testing standards/procedures work. Find them on the Internet at www.sae.org
I really enjoy your show Saturday mornings....great stuff! We're looking at a 2003 Land Rover Freelander at a local dealer and wondered if you had any comments about the vehicle's reliability. We're looking to trade in a 1999 Lexus RX300 which has been great for my wife, but is facing some extensive maintenance repairs and we think it's time to trade. Thoughts?
Ed
If you've been a long-term listener to my WLS Radio show or a reader of this column, you know that I'm a huge fan of Land Rover products. I had the opportunity to do a two-day test of the Freelander on Catalina Island off the coast of Southern California. The chance to be the first off-roaders ever allowed on Catalina was granted because of the brand's ongoing care for the environment and its incredibly successful "Tread Lightly" program. The Land Rover experience, whether with a new or used vehicle, is dedicated to quality motoring with minimal environmental impact. I like that attitude a lot and respect them for it deeply. Amid two days of planting trees and shoring up rock lines on the island's coast, the Freelander showed its abilities as well-built, capable and worthy of the price they ask. I've driven Land Rovers extensively in the states, Canada and on a very memorable trek to Scotland where, among other challenging trails, we drove down rivers (and I don't mean for a few yards—I mean a few miles!) without a drip inside. What do I think? I think they're awesome. Having said that, you might also know that I'm a big believer in factory-backed extended warranty programs. If the dealer offers one for the LR you're considering, buy it. Insurance is insurance—and you'll sleep better at night!
Just a quick question: is there any truth to 2007 being the last year for the Scion Xb?
Patty
As I'm sworn to secrecy, the only thing I'd suggest is that you buy a ticket for the 2007 Chicago Auto Show, Feb. 9-18 and mozy over to the Scion display. I bet you'll be pleased with what you see, as you just never know when a vehicle is going to make its world debut. If now your curiosity is piqued even more, you could consider buying a new gown (or recycling one from the holidays) and a ticket to the auto show's First Look for Charity, Thursday Feb. 8. It's the show's black-tie preview where attendees are able to view the show in a less-crowded atmosphere, not to mention an ab-fab array of hors d'oeuvres, champagne, wine and a chance to win one of three cars. Three? Yes. Three winners for three great cars: the GMC Acadia, the Hyundai Azera sedan and a sporty VW GTI. For full information, go to www.ChicagoAutoShow.com.
My husband and I are thinking of trading our 2004 Toyota Avalon XLS for a 2007 Toyota Avalon Limited -- we're not too thrilled with the body style and wonder of the '08 will have a new body style. We've had Toyotas for many years. What would you recommend as an alternative?
Emily
There will not be a body style change for the Avalon for the '08 model year, so (as I've said many times in this column) if you're more inclined to keep a car for 5-6 years than every 2-3 years, make your deal NOW on the '07. I'm curious why, when you've had "Toyotas for years" and evidently like them enough that you're looking at still another, why would you want to change? But since you've asked, I'd look at the Ford Fusion, Chevy Impala, Honda Accord and Hyundai Azera. They're all in a scapping match for market share in that category and all on my list of picks to click.
I want to put some rad 22s on my ’03 Cavalier. Is this a good idea?
Matt
I never recommend exceeding the manufacturer’s specifications when making changes to your vehicle. In the case of your ’03 Cavalier, Chevrolet offered 14-, 15-, and 16-inch wheels. So I’d say, stick with 16s at the most. You see, when you put a larger-than-stock wheel on your vehicle, you play havoc with the suspension and braking systems. One common problem with people who install large aftermarket wheels is increased brake wear and warped brake rotors. In addition, it’s not uncommon to see broken suspension parts and even cracked wheel hubs. I’d say it’s best to stick with the size the manufacturer intended and customize your car in other ways.
Can you get an engineer from the major car companies and ask them "What would it take for a minivan size vehicle to get over 35 mpg?" "Can hybrid technoligies be adapted?" "Full time Hybrid, I've heard rumors of the "Hybrid Escape" that can get close to 40mpg when the car is driven at the conversion speed when both electic and gas work at the same time.
Michael
I don't think we need an engineer to do that, do we? The technology exists now and I'm sure you'll be seeing hybrid tech showing up in more and more vehicles. Ford is currently selling its Escape with hybrid power and it works great. I think hybrids with minivans are a great combo, as I'd guess most minivan miles are stop-and-go around town where that technology works best.
I'd also be on the lookout for more diesel-powered vehicles that will be orders of magnitude cleaner, quieter and more cost-efficient than the generation we saw in the mid 70s. With ultra-clean diesel fuel mandated by this fall, the new technology makes many of the diesels transparent when compared to their gasoline counterparts.
On the horizon (around 2011 from most reports), you'll see most of the major players coming to the table with what will be known as HCCI (Homogeneous Charge Combustion Ignition) technology. They say that this new way of exploding gasoline in a cylinder will deliver even better results than the diesels will. Stay tuned-for a while!
I have a 1977 Pontiac Grand Prix with a freshly restored body that now looks brand new. I'm thinking about selling it, but I'm not sure if there's a market for such a car. Suggestions? Thoughts?
Tim
If I've learned anything over the years, it's that there's a market for every car: New, used, sedan, convertible, rusted, dead-on-arrival, anything! So is there a market for yours? Of course there is, but unfortunately the '77 GP isn't a terribly collectible vintage. Having said that, I guarantee there's someone out there who is simply salivating about the thought of having one in their driveway. I'd suggest listing it in a collector's book, such as Hemmings Motor News. You have to cast a pretty big net to catch any fish on this trip.
This past week I flew to Newark to pick up a 1987 Cadillac Allante convertible with two tops and only 29K miles on itf that I bought on eBay. When I arrived, the car was every bit as described and pictured. It is totally cherry inside and out. All it lacks is the new car smell, but otherwise belongs in a showroom. They had done a check on the car's history and it was all clean. The mileage was verified through previous titles. Everything looks new and original.
It drove the 950 miles back to Chicago from New Jersey without any problems whatsoever. So what is the problem, you ask? Well, here is the only hitch. When I close either the driver door or the passenger door, I get this tinny sheet metal echoey sound, not the solid dampened "kerchunk" you would expect to hear from most cars, but especially from a Cadillac door closing.
So have you ever heard of such an issue on a luxury car, and do you have any suggestions?
Thanks for any suggestions, happy motoring, and happy radio and Daily Herald talk.
Bill
I'd call the folks at Steve Foley Cadillac in Northbrook. Amazingly, they do a fairly brisk biz in finding and selling not only Allantes, but convertible conversions of various Cadillacs, as well. They've had an in-house specialist in cars like this for a long time, so if your problem is endemic to the species they'll be the ones who can give you the proper guidance for a good fix. Whether your car is brand new or almost 20 years old like yours, keeping those who work with them on a daily basis in your circle of counselors is never a bad idea.
I’m an "Oldie But Goodie" who’s stuck in a bind. My current vehicle needs a new transmission and the repair will cost more than the car is worth. I have plenty of money to buy a new car, but can’t find one with a cassette player. I hear these new-fangled CDs are near indestructible, but am not really interested in going out and buying an entire collection’s worth to replace my tapes. Are there any new cars out there that still offer cassette players?
Manny
Manny, you might consider a 1956-57 Chrysler product. During those years, MoPar offered the Highway Hi-Fi. It was a radio option that played 16 2/3-rpm records. Seriously, there are a few vehicles that still offer tape players as either standard or optional equipment. The Dodge Stratus, Ford Crown Victoria, Mercury Grand Marquis and ’06 Toyota Camry come to mind, but there may be a few more. (Thanks to John Biel and the folks at Collectible Automobile magazine for the information about the Highway Hi-Fi, by the way). Here's a list (pretty darn complete) of cars that offer cassette tape players: Please write again when you're ready to purchase the new Julius LaRosa box set edition, too! Acura TL Buick Ranier Chrysler 300 (optional) Chrysler Town
My daughter drives a '98 Audi A4 and is looking for a comparable driving care without the price tag of an Audi. Can you recommend and brand and model? Thanks for the help, Bill
Bill
Hmmmm… "I want filet mignon, but I want to pay for round steak." It's not an unusual request, but there's a reason why it costs more. We'd all like to do that, but there's that nasty reality thing that keeps cropping up. Here's what I'd suggest. Look for cars that emulate the qualities your daughter enjoys, but in her price range. Since I don't know from your letter what that number is, I'll have to go with dimensions, performance, and economies of initial and long-term expense. The cars that immediately come to mind are the Ford Fusion (and its Mercury counterpart), Chevy Impala, Hyundai Azera, Toyota Camry, or Nissan Altima. Most all of them have a pretty aggressive incentive and marketing program in place that will make them appealing on any level your daughter might like. Let me know how it turns out!
Paul, I concur with your suggestion a while ago of a VW Beetle to the large gentlemen looking for a small car, but with a caveat: As a 6'10" 295 lb.-sized guy, I agree with the incredible space for a driver and a passenger, and i find it fun to drive. I had looked at a Scion xB which also had incredible head room, but I have a problem with Jaoenese-sized cars, so I bought the VW. Auto makers are failing recognize us "larger-than-what-they-think" are average guys!
Glenn
Bravo to the Big and Tall guys!
Love your show, listen every Saturday. I am a 50+ Baby Boomer. My wife and I are anxiously awaiting the arrival of the new Buick Enclave. Much to our disappointment, according to their Web site this vehicle will not be offered in black. How can that be?
Patrick
They must be listening to you and the Web site reflects it now. "Carbon Black Metallic" is available on the Enclave with a small upcharge for the option. Enjoy. It's a heck of a vehicle that drives just great. Buick has a hit on their hands with this one, to be sure.
I am going to purchase a GMC Yukon soon. Are there any reasons why I should pay more for the 2008 model, such as improvements over the 2007? I can get a new 2007 for a pretty good deal and wanted your opinion. As background, I generally drive my vehicles 8-10 years before selling them.
Brian
You are clearly in the group who should be buying at end-of-the-year savings time. Generally, if you trade cars every 2-3 years, I'd suggest you go with the newer model, but when that time line extends out to 4-5 years the numbers indicate the "older" year is your best choice. Why? Because the difference in actual cash value a vehicle -- year to year -- gets smaller with every year. In other words, the difference ten years from now between an '07 and an '08 vehicle with the same miles will be negligible, if different at all. Buy smart. Take advantage of the best prices of the year right now.
I have been looking for a 2007 Ford Mustang with the California Special package....unable to find exactly what I want...so the dealer suggest ordering it.....saying it may take only 4 weeks.
What do you believe the ordering time to be?
Kevin
While I understand the benefits of getting exactly, precisely what you want in your new car by ordering it, there are also benefits from being somewhat flexible when making your choice. What I mean is that if you look at almost every factory and dealer incentive program (i.e., rebates) that are in place these days, the mini-print on the bottom of the ad will disclose that the rebate applies to vehicles in stock through a certain date. The reason they want to do this is to help hold down the overhead cost for the dealer of keeping those cars on the lot, rather than rolling down the street with a new owner. You probably don't think about it, but the dealer is paying interest on the cars they have in stock, so there's a monetary incentive to move them first, rather than taking an order. As for the production time, with orders slowing down recently, the production lines aren't full with making vehicles for dealer stock, so I think the four week window isn't unreasonable. Just out of curiosity, have you jumped on www.DriveChicago.com to search for the California Special Mustang that might be sitting on the lot right here in Chicagoland? Having only Chicagoland-based inventory on the site is one of the great benefits of using it.
We want to replace our 1992 Camry V6 with a comparable new car; something in this same general class. We do not like the styling of the 2007 Camry. This is primarily for local use and occasional road trips. Reliability is important. Suggestions? We have an aversion to GM products.
William
Wow. This is like asking, "Paul, I like colors. Which one do you like?" There are SO many answers to this question it's really tough, but I'll try to give you a few ideas. Certainly on this list would be the Camry, as it's the best-selling midsize car in the country, but you've stated you don't care for the styling (even though I like it even more than its Armani-clad sister ship, the Lexus ES350). I'd have to put the Honda Accord on the list. Its reliability, fit and finish are simply awesome. The Hyundai Azera is freshly styled and very stylish, not to mention backed by one of the best warranties in the industry. For someone like yourself, who evidently don't trade vehicles very often, the long-term warranty might make a great deal of sense. The part that puzzles me is your "aversion" to GM products. I think you're closing yourself off to some really great possibilities, including the Chevy Malibu or Pontiac G6. Quality is on the rise from the General so don't count them out. Also (I told you this list might get long) would be the Ford Fusion (awesome great looks and far roomier on the inside than it looks from the outside) and the Chicago-built 500. Buddy, you've got a complete cornucopia of cars from which you can choose. Oh, by the way, I like light blue—like my eyes.
I have a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee. The tires lose 3-5 psi whenever the temperature goes to 20 degrees or lower. Would nitrogen help eliminate this problem? The dealer tells me that he can find no problem with the wheels.
Jim
I must get a dozen or so letters a month asking about the use of inert gases in tires. While I think it's an absolutely valid idea if you're racing at Indianapolis or Daytona, the benefits of using Nitrogen in your tires to go to Dominick's or downtown is minimal, if not negligible. Your tires will lose some psi when it gets colder due to the laws of physics, but as they roll, heat will build up gradually and they'll get back to normal range. I do give you very high marks for being so attentive to your tire pressures, though. Most people have a blank stare when you ask them what pressures their vehicle requires. For a whole lot of information on this subject, visit http://tiresafety.com/ It's operated by Bridgestone-Firestone and is the most comprehensive gathering of information I can find on the Net.
The next time you have your tires balanced, you might want to have them re-mounted. It's likely a faulty bead is the source of your leak.
I am new to the car buying process, and I have found that I have to expect a certain level of deception when I go to the dealerships. Every salesperson I have met with so far only seems to care about what they want to sell me vs. what I want to buy! Do you foresee a day when a consumer will be able to complete the entire car buying process online? If I am going to spend $20,000 on a car, shouldn't I be able to order it to my EXACT specifications, in the same way I can order a computer from Dell without a salesperson trying to derail me?
Janet
Oh, you poor thing, Janet! How tough it must be to go through life knowing that there are salespeople who are trying to actually sell you something. How do you cope with such stresses? To think that everyone from the eeeeeeeeeeeeeeevil car salesman to the disembodied voice behind the McDonald's remote box who asks, "Do you want fries with that?" are... gasp... trying to sell you into something you might not want-or even be aware of.
To answer your question, do I foresee a day "when a consumer will be able to complete the car buying process online?" No. I don't. Why? Because once I purchase that vehicle I'm going to have to have a place where I can have warranty work done. I'm sure that even someone like yourself has had to order warranty work from what is evidently your standard of excellence, Dell Computers. I own a few Dell computers, too, and have torn more than a few phone books in half when my "on site warranty" work was being scheduled for five days after it blew up like a 155mm Howitzer round hitting a target. Those dealerships and their staffs are spread across the country to make sure that someone, like yourself, is able to confidently travel and get service should you need it. They even give you 24-hour-a-day roadside assistance. Does Dell? Don't even get me started on how you know what's available on the car that you order. Heck, I deal with this stuff every day of my life and I still don't know all of the options, all of the plans, all of the promotions, all of the benefits or all of anything about every brand.
How nice it must be for you to trust your limited judgement--only to complain post--sale that you didn't know that you should have or could have ordered a package that was desirable to your needs. Perhaps your homework, which could start on www.DriveChicago.com, and figure out which vehicles have the features you need or want.
Get derailed by sales people? Why not spend your time finding a salesperson who wants to help you-and there are thousands in Chicagoland-and then enlist them in a partnership of your needs and their ability to meet them. You might actually find it a beneficial alliance. It's true that salespeople wish to sell what's on the lot at that point in time. Sometimes it benefits the customer, too, as a dealer would rather move a unit upon which he's not paying interest, but any salesperson at any dealership will be happy to take your order for anything you want-but be prepared to post a substantial deposit. The discount is always better for what's on the lot.
By the way, who convinced you to buy the paper? Hmmm... thought so.
I'm a long time listener to your radio program on WLS and your column in the paper. Several times I have heard you say that radial tires should be rotated only on the same side. I remember that when radials first became popular, cross-rotating was not recommended. The reason being that the steel belt would walk out of the sidewall if the direction of rotation was reversed. The owner's manuals for my '95 Regal & 2000 LeSabre show a cross-rotation pattern. Are the manuals incorrect?
I'm not trying to be a smarty pants! I have a $500 set of tires that are about due for their first rotation and I don't want to make a mistake.
Ed
I always defer to experts in these matters, and for me the folks at Bridgestone-Firestone are the final word. Their Web site, www.TireSafety.com has a whole section on tire rotation. True enough, in the early days of radials the rule was always on the same side, and I have stuck to that for a long time. New times, new tires, new protocols! Here's what they have to say:
Tire Rotation
Tire rotation is vital to achieving even tread wear and long tread life. Rotation is necessary because of the uneven wear characteristics of each wheel position on the vehicle. Rotate tires at the vehicle manufacturer's recommended intervals or at 5,000 - 7,000 miles if not specified.
A good example is Front Wheel Drive vehicles which places braking, steering and driving forces on the front axle tires. Rear axle tires only receive braking forces resulting in a much faster wear rate for the front axle tires. Tire rotation for these vehicles therefore becomes very important for optimum tire life.
Modified Cross Rotation
The "Modified Cross Pattern" provides the best results and can be performed on any Front or Rear Wheel Drive vehicle equipped with 4 non-directional tires. (directional tires must be rotated front to rear only.)
Free rolling axle tires are crossed and installed to the drive axle, while the drive axle tires are brought straight to the free rolling axle (without crossing).
Make sure you maintain vehicle manufacturers inflation recommendations after rotating tires.
Directional treads are designed to perform in the direction denoted on the tire sidewall only. They must always be rotated front to rear - despite the type of vehicle they are installed on - so the direction of the revolution does not change.
4-Wheel Drive
Vehicles equipped with permanent 4-Wheel Drive and those with "on Command" 4-Wheel Drive and driven mainly in 4-Wheel mode, are best suited to a four tire cross rotation. With this pattern, tires from both axles are crossed and installed on the opposing axle.
Straight Rotation
Straight Rotation was developed in the early years of radial tires. This rotation method simply replaces the front to rear and rear to front and is used for directional tread patterns.
5 Tire Rotation
If the vehicle owner has a regular tire as a spare tire and wishes to include it in the tire rotation process, the proper procedure is to use the appropriate rotation pattern shown for 4 Tire Rotation, BUT insert the spare in the right rear position. Place the tire which would have gone to the right rear in the trunk as the new spare.
They add to never include a temporary spare tire in the rotation and that directional tread patterns must be rotated front-to-rear only so the direction of the revolution does not change.
Love your show and column, and I don't even care about cars that much! But Paul, who is the "will come to your home to detail your car" guy you've talked about? I live in a downtown high-rise apartment and have a Lexus that I love. Thanks so much.
Sharon
I used to have a service come to my home or office and detail my car twice a year. For the uninitiated, detailing is different from a "wash and vacuum" that you do on a weekly--or because I'm totally fixated on it--twice weekly basis. A detailing consists of a thorough cleaning of the outside AND the inside of the car, including the engine bay, trunk, everything. My car's engine bay generally looks cleaner than it did the day it left Stuttgart. The finish of the car follows the rules that Gary Boba, keeper of Paul's cars, recommends: Washing and a blow dry. Yes, I know it sounds nuts but he uses a leaf blower to dry it as he feels any cloth without wax on it can hurt the paint. Then the finish is "cleaned" further with whatever level of compounding he feels is necessary. Most people will just slather on a squirt of whatever is on sale at the hardware store and goo it around, followed by a rub with an old kitchen towel. These are the thoughts that keeps Gary awake at night, akin to his own personal Wes Craven-esque horror movie. Only after the surface is properly cleaned does he anoint it with wax and a buffing with brand new baby diapers. It's quite a process, he takes the majority of a whole day to do it and yes, it's costly, but for many people it's well worth it. Sounds like you're one of those people and the best part is that he comes to you, not the other way around. You (and others) can find him at 815-370-2068 or via the Internet by visiting http://bobasautodetail.tripod.com/.
If I give my old car to my son and transfer title to him, do I still have to pay Illinois sales tax? I cant get an answer from the Sec. of State. Thanks for a great radio show and glad you're back in the paper again.
Larry
Thanks for the kudos on the WLS show and yes, it's good to be back in print, too! To address your question about the never-ending complexity of taxable events: Vehicle transactions involving an application for title and/or registration face either sales tax or use tax. In his case, use tax would apply.
Using the Illinois Revenue Department’s Form RUT-50, the transaction is eligible for exemption from the full use tax because “the vehicle is being transferred or purchased from either a spouse, parent, brother, sister, or child.” In this case, a mere $15 tax is due. Tax would not be dependent on the vehicle’s fair market value. Illinois Form RUT-50 and any tax payment are due within 30 days from the date the vehicle is purchased or acquired by gift or transfer.
As for the federal gift tax, the IRS indicated that for 2004, the annual exclusion was $11,000. Therefore, you generally could give up to $11,000 each to any number of people in 2004 and none of the gifts would be taxable. If you are married, both you and your spouse can separately give up to $11,000 to the same person in 2004 without making a taxable gift.
After 2004, the $11,000 annual exclusion for 2004 may have increased due to a cost-of-living inflation adjustment, but I don’t know what it is for 2005. If the vehicle’s fair market value exceeds the threshold, tax is responsibility of the giver and is due the following (GASP—The dreaded date!) April 15.
A dear friend of mine wanted to buy a car for his mother-in-law, but he lives in Dublin and my friend lives near Chicago. After hearing you write and talk about it on the radio, I used www.DriveChicago.com to find a dealer near her. I got connected with the Internet manager and looked at the inventory. The first price he quoted was satisfactory. We made a deal and a wire transfer was made for payment. We picked up the car and my friends's wife flew over to see mom and be with her when she picked up the car. All were happy and it was easy, which was their number one criteria. Congratulations on a system that works!
William
Thanks for the kind words, it's nice to know that we're appreciated.
QUESTION: I had heard that in Minnesota, people are using E-85 in non-flex fuel vehicles. Any thoughts on that?
Mark
In the past, the problem with using too much ethanol has been the effect on rubber products within the fuel system. The rubber was not coated to withstand (long term) exposure to the chemical composition of ethanol. Yes, you can get away with using ethanol in the short run, but in the longer view, it will cost you plenty.
The failures have been with the rubber parts in the fuel pumps (which are currently located inside the fuel tanks and are very expensive to replace), fuel injectors, fuel regulators, etc. The current use of 10 percent ethanol will not harm these parts fast enough that the average person will ever notice, but 85 percent ethanol sounds like a whole other story that could have an expensive final chapter.
Off the top of my head I can think of at least one other system that it may affect and that would be the evaporative emissions system. Does it take a special type of charcoal canister, or different oxygen sensors? What about the coatings in the catalytic converters? Possible expensive imponderables.
The other argument against using ethanol (and this goes way back 15-20 years) has been that ethanol does not have the BTU (British Thermal Unit) content of gasoline and therefore will underpower your vehicle. This argument falls flat on its face when you consider that we are only using 21 percent of the BTU potential of gasoline now. So who cares what the top end BTU output is when we are only using one fifth of it anyway? Incidentally, when we were using carburetors on our vehicles (and averaging 10-14 miles per gallon) we were only using 17-19 percent of the BTU potential of gasoline. Current fuel injection systems use 21 percent of the BTU content of gasoline and get about 20-25 miles per gallon. Not bad for a 2-3 percent BTU increase.
I would not recommend using 85 percent ethanol until the manufacturer approves it or independent testing confirms it is okay. The other big issue is that your manufacturer tells you which fuel to use. Would drastically changing that void your warranty? I think so, but I'll wait to hear from you with that letter a few years from now.
Do you think the Illinois auto emission testing program is worthwhile or is it a waste of taxpayer dollars? Do other states have this program?
Hal
I think that while the program is a good thing, it's nowhere near what the state could be doing to really help keep down emissions. Yes, other states have similar programs, but other states also have "Cash for Clunkers" programs that rid our roads (and environment) of older cars that contribute to the majority of pollution. Only 10 percent of vehicles on the roads today produce 50 percent of the pollution. Older vehicles emit 30 times more smog related emissions than newer vehicles By giving owners of these older cars incentives when they trade them in, we do a much more efficient job of cleaning our air. Why don't we all contact our state elected representatives and demand that they put something together to make a program like this a reality in Illinois. They haven't been shy about enacting new fuel taxes and fuel formulations--all in the name of pollution control--so why not this?
Although I couldn't make it to the Chicago Auto Show this year, I am in the market this spring for a new car. My first choice is to look at a Charger and would like your opinion on it. Is the 250hp engine powerful enough because I like cars with speed and styling. I don't need a hemi in this city. I'm in sales around the Chicago area so I'm in the car a lot and like to get from Elgin to Chicago Heights in a fair amount of time. Also, if you have any other suggestions because I am open to those too. Thanks and await your expertise.
Bob
Well, it's a shame you didn't make it to the show, as it's one of the best ways to do a side-by-side comparison of all vehicles under one roof--but that's a moot point as you didn't make it! Will 250 bhp propel the Charger with enough verve to handle the job you're talking about? I'd say absolutely. I like the engine's ability to get the Charger "charging" without having to put up with the lowered mpg that the Hemi will cost you… and yes, I know all about the ability of the Hemi to shut down cylinders that aren't needed for the moment, but if there's no initial need for it in the first place, why pay for the premium? As for the looks of the car, I think the Dodge folks got it very right when trying to incorporate the looks of a coupe into a sedan. In certain colors it's barely perceptible that it has four doors instead of two. The Mercedes-Benz CLS is another car that hides its "sedan-ness" well, but my chiropractor's beeper goes off every time I look at the back seat. The back of the Charger is quite livable, though, and the rest of the car is very stylish. The other point to keep in focus is that if you're commuting from Elgin to Chicago Heights you need something with great brakes, too! Is there a good way to do that drive? Good luck!
Are there any good reliable extended warranty providers/companies for a used 1999 Mercedes (49,000 miles) that you would recommend?
Marty
I'm a fan of extended warranties for used cars when they are the factory-branded product from a franchised new-car dealer. So that means when you get your '99 M-B from your dealer, find out if it qualifies for the M-B certified program. To qualify for Pre-Owned Certification, a Mercedes-Benz vehicle must meet stringent criteria and pass a rigorous 130 point inspection. I think the programs are a terrific way to get into vehicles that have some "seasoning" and still have the comfort of a factory warranty.
What kind of feedback have you received on third party extended warranty's. I want to buy a Chrysler Pacifica and was looking at a 5 year 100k warranty offered by one company on the Web. I don't know anything about this company so I wanted to know if you've received any feedback or if you could point me in the right direction on a better company or product
Steve
For a long time I've been an exclusive fan of factory-backed extended warranties. The manufacturers have extensive check lists of items that have to meet standard before they issue the warranty. I know who the folks are who have big signs with their names on them (a la GM, Ford, Chrysler, Toyota, Nissan, etc.), but I'm not real familiar with "Frank's House of Warranties, Storm Door, Seal Coat and HMO." I think you'd be sleeping better knowing that if you're on a road trip and need to get something fixed on-the-fly, you'd be able to go into any big manufacturer dealership knowing that they'll honor the warranty. That's worth a lot in my book, wouldn't you agree?
I have only test driven the Lexus GS 300 AWD so far. I don't care for the rear seat headroom at all and I'm very tight in driver leg room department. I haven't had a chance to drive BMW 530i or Acura RL yet. Do these have more headroom & leg room than the Lexus
Brian
Have you heard the one about "Doctor, it hurts when I go like 'this'?" Well, obviously the Lexus GS isn't for you. As for your query about how you fit into a car, the answer lies only in you assembling your body with each car. You can have a 6' tall man with a 28" inseam or a 36" inseam. What I mean is that everyone's body isn't the same. Manufacturers (roughly) build cars for people in the 88th percentile, meaning their average person isn't the biggest or certainly the smallest. They obviously can't build them all for the biggest people, as it would be a waste of time and material. My advice? Spend an evening and try 'em on!
I'm having a lot of trouble with this question. I'm towing a vehicle with a towbar behind an RV. What vehicles qualify for this? The cars I'm looking at are 4-door sedans and mid-size SUVs. Right now I'm open to all options. Can you help?
Greg
The solution to this commonly asked question is both simple and complex. In the owner’s manual for each vehicle is a section on "dolly and flat" towing. For some vehicles it is as easy as putting the vehicle in neutral and pulling a fuse. In other’s it’s a complex sequence of steps. Some vehicles can not be flat towed at all. So for a person looking for a vehicle that will be flat towed, I always suggest the following criteria:
1. Something that’s light and no larger than you absolutely need. Check the towing capacities that are listed in the manuals and sales literature. (Bigger isn't always better!)
2. Something where the flat-towing procedure is simple. (Ask to look at the owner's manual as a part of your buying process)
3. Something that has inexpensive and standard-size tires. (There’s noting worse than getting a flat on towed vehicle and not being able to get a replacement tire)
After that, the world is pretty much your oyster.
I cannot afford a Fusion and I love Fords. I would like to purchase a 2007 Focus. I have two small kids. Do you like the 2007 Focus as a small family car. I have read a lot a about how this car has improved over the years and I really like the styling. What do you think?
Doug
Your brand loyalty is commendable! You're right that the Focus has evolved into what is a terrific family compact car. It's wonderfully affordable now, too. Right now Focus is starting at $11,575 after all offers. That includes $1,500 in "Customer Cash," plus an additional $1,000 in Year End "Bonus Cash," but you have to hustle to get in on it, as the offer ends January 2, 2007. As I said in the top of this column, the entire market is highly incentivised. You won't see deals like this pop up until the Chicago Auto Show hits in early February. Many manufacturers pass out special auto show bonus coupons for those in attendance, including the Chicagoland Ford dealers.
Remember that the cost of a vehicle is beyond the initial price--and it sounds like you'd be interested in the total cost. You can’t control rising gas prices, but you can control how smartly you use the gas you buy. You do things like combining your trips. You plan your route to drive the shortest distance. You don’t speed or accelerate too rapidly. And you make a smart choice in the vehicle you drive. Focus offers two engines that are downright stingy with gas, getting up to 37 mpg on the highway.
Have you seen the Giugiaro Mustang? Wow! Fantastic! I would re-mortgage my house to get one. It makes the present model dowdy by comparison. When you are with the movers and shakers at Ford, please ask them about the probability of making it as shown and when.
Carl
Oh Carl, how I admire your enthusiasm and desire to get one of these awesome Mustangs, but I'm afraid that it's a styling exercise, not a fore-runner to production. That doesn't mean that the Giugaro Mustang's "look" won't be translated into future Mustangs. Ford made a wise choice in enlisting Giugaro to do this car. In the past, they've also tapped Pininfarina and Bertone, both famous Italian coachbuilders, to do production designs. Were they teasing you and your fellow Mustang fans? Perhaps, but look at the buzz they created. I'm guessing that with the Camaro and Challenger (which will make its production debut at the '08 Chicago Auto Show next February), you'll also see some "freshening" of the current Mustang. Sales on the current car are going well, as they should be. The current car can be purchased for under $20 thousand, or well over $40 thousand in its high-zoot, high power trim. It's a blast to drive, too.
I am wondering what you would suggest for a small run around car for the city and possibly commuting to Milwaukee. My budget is small, around $4000, so it would be a used car. I'm not sure what I should start looking at though. I just want good gas mileage. This would be a second car. We have a large van that I feel ridiculous taking to the grocery store. The only other requirement is that it fit my husband who is 6'5" tall.
Dione
I did a quick search on www.DriveChicago.com and asked the site to show me used vehicles under $5,000 (there isn't a parameter for your $4G figure, but you can do the eyework when you jump on) and I found no fewer than 42 pages of vehicles listed for sale in Chicagoland dealerships. You're sharp enough to know the likely candidates for your search…so go search! I really do have a lot of faith in the DriveChicago system, as it's the only Web site in the area that focuses where we live, not where we don't! You're right, though, about re-thinking your transportation to the grocery store to save money in the long term. A ginormous van to pick up a bag of Doritos doesn't make a lot of sense. As for your husband's height, have you considered "Chainsaws.com"? Happy hunting!
I have two Pontiac Grand Prix, a 2004 and a 2005. The ’04 has the available head-up display and I would love to have it again. The problem is that Pontiac only offers the head-up display on the GTP. I don’t need or want that power or price. Is there another company that offers head-up displays as an aftermarket addition?
Edward
I've driven many cars that have Head Up Display (HUD), where various information is projected onto the windshield, helping the driver not have to divert vision from the road to the instrument cluster. Unfortunately, I don't know of any aftermarket manufacturer for this feature. I shot a quick call to the Kings of Instrumentation at Auto Meter Corp. in Sycamore, Ill., who said they don't make or know of anyone, either. I think your best bet, as the technology and demand grows, is to keep an eye on developments at the Specialty Equipment Market Association (SEMA) show in November. If it's going to show up at all, it'll be seen there first.
I trust your advice and finally have a question I wanted to ask. I am thinking about selling my mother's 1981 Chevy Malibu, it has rust, but otherwise in very good shape. I had a certified appraiser estimate its value at $2,000 for insurance purposes. All parts were replaced as needed, such as the engine at 19,000 miles and so on. It now is going on 75,000 miles. Yes, the little old lady story. I take it out on the expressway for a good run (once or twice a month).and change the oil every 3,000 miles.
1. What is the best way to sell the car?
2. When I get a price I want, do I just sign and turn over the title or is there more to do
Mark
Selling a car on your own can be a hassle, so be prepared for all of the calls--from both interested parties and downright flakes--before you start down that path. So let me get this straight: You have a 25-year-old car that's rusty, had an entire engine replacement at 19K, now running up to 75K miles and you're looking to. . . . what . . . sell it as a collectible? It's not. Unfortunately, in the eyes of the average buyer, it's just an old car with (granted) low miles for its age, but not much more. What to sell it for? Whatever you can get. When you do sell it, yes, the owner simply signs the back of the title (I assume it's free and clear without any liens) to the new owner.
I have a 2002 Ford Focus and my wife has a 2002 Ford Explorer. I have generally run my cars 'til they drop, but my wife says we should trade in at a certain mileage. Financially, which is the best approach? Do you get burned when you trade in or should I run the cars as long as I can? Any info will be appreciated! Love your show and column.
Jay
My general rule of thumb is that if you're keeping a car more than 3 years, you should be trading into the end-of-year discount season, as 4-5 years from now there won't be a heck of a lot of difference in value between them. If you trade more often than that, get the car when it's fresh in the model year. You've answered which camp you're in by asking your question. I'd suggest that you consider making your trade at the 60k mile mark or less for a 3-4 year-old vehicle. That way the dealer still has a marketable vehicle for the used-car lot. Put yourself in the position of being a used-car buyer. When you visit the dealer, you want to see vehicles with lower mileage and you realize that they'll cost you more. Why? Because the dealer had to put more money into the trade-in to make the deal, raising the price to the next owner. I've never been a fan of the "run 'til it folds" theory. Perhaps it's just my desire to get something new, but I'm a 3-year owner—maximum—for general use vehicles.
I'm seriously considering buying an Infiniti M45. However, with all my research, I cannot get a straight answer about how the car handles in the rain. As you know, Chicago has 3 conditions: rain, snow and road construction. So with 335HP, RWD and 19" tires, I want to know how it will handle in the rain.
Eileen
Are you from heaven or what? Gotta love a woman who's cool enough to want a deliciously quick sedan AND knows enough to mount up some serious winter treads for it, as well. Bravi, dolce!
Now, on to your question: I'd personally have no qualms about how it's going to behave in wet conditions. It's not like the Infiniti people are going to put some super-dry tread tires Some of them are fabulous on dry pavement, good on the rain, but a true attention-getter should the first flake of snow hit the ground. You're working with a tall, low aspect ratio tire/wheel combo, but unless you're doing you own little impersonation of Michael Schumacher on the off ramps, I wouldn't sweat it. The M45 Infiniti has a lot of passive systems to help make up for driver defects or miscues, although if you listen to my show often or read my columns you know I'm a serious proponent of performance driving schools to better learn what's going on with your car (and how to react to it) when you're on the street. I’m not talking about learning to race on the street. I mean you will be a better and safer driver when you understand the dynamics of a car in motion You might be a perfect candidate for that, too, and love the experience.
As for the rest of the car, I loved the "old" M car and the new one is even more fun. If the wet driving thing is that big an issue for you, perhaps you might consider the six cylinder M35X all-wheel drive version. Not as much smile factor with its right pedal, but a darn competent sedan.
How can I find the MSRP of a car the year it was built? I want to show my wife that Corvettes don't go down in value much. I see 2001 Vette convertibles for $30K which I believe is close to what they were when they were new but I have no way to find out. I'm building my case to by a new one!
Bob
You're not alone in building a justification case for the purchase of your new car, Bob. Most every married guy you see in a Vette, Porsche or M-B roadster has had to travel the same road you're on. In 2001, the Vette coupe had a base price of $40, 280; convertible at $46,805; and the ZO6 at $48,055. I'd say you'd be well in the ballpark by guestimating an average of $3,000 of options, the most popular package including power seats, tilt-tele steering wheel, remote locks and the like. The 6-speed transmission was an $800 option.
All these numbers are remarkable in that I've always regarded the Corvette as the best performance value of any car in the industry. You're buying Ferrari performance at a Marshall Field (god rest their corporate soul) price-Classy, but certainly not exorbitant.
Here's what I'd do to con.... pardon me... build your case: Do a comparison of 3-, 4-, and 5-year-old Corvettes. Find examples of them online and do an average of cars with similar equipment and mileage. Scientifically and statistically (meaning work the numbers to assist your mission) your research-with depreciation charts with very little slope-and then present it to wifey. Believe me, it works. I have used this con.... research... for several Corvettes and Porsches.
I'm trying to sell a 2003 Ford Taurus SE. It has 41k miles. I bought it in April 2004. It also has a remote start, alarm and extended warranty until 2009 or 93k miles. I put an ad in the "Herald" for $8,000 or best offer. One man said, "You won't get 8." He's not interested because it doesn't have power-seats. About 400 miles ago, CarMax offered me $6500. Any suggestions?
Kathleen
I see you're learning what it's like to be in the car business! No different from any other seller of new or used vehicles, your truck is worth the exact number of dollars at which you're willing to sell and a buyer is willing to purchase. I'd suggest you keep an eye on vehicles of this type on DriveChicago.com and you should get a good pulse for what it's worth. Remember, though, if you're buying another vehicle after selling your truck, you might consider trading it, as taxes are charged on the cash difference only, not the full price of the "new" vehicle. If your truck is worth $8G in trade-in value, that's increasing its value by almost $800.
I’m looking for a new vehicle and want one that gets great fuel economy but isn’t too small. In doing some research, I’ve come away a little confused. I read that hybrid vehicles get great fuel economy, but that the fuel economy isn’t much better than traditional subcompact cars or comparable cars with diesel engines. Is this true? What would you recommend for someone that just wants reliable and fuel-efficient transportation?
Cynthia
While I think the hybrid answer is a good answer, I don't think it's going to be the final answer at all. Don't get me wrong: Hybrids offer a terrific interim solution and don't enter into the realm of those who are still suffering from the late-70s "Dieselphobia" which was brought about by some quickly thought-up products (mainly from GM) that were noisy, stinky, clunky and just generally a pain to operate. I have contended (on the radio show) for a long time that our long-term answer is going to lie in clean diesel--new technology with new fuel that has dramatically different results. The test cars I drive these days (from VW, Mercedes and others) are worlds apart from their progenitors. Heck, they're almost transparent when compared to their gasoline-powered cousins. Hybrids are terrific and cost-effective for people who do the majority of their driving in-town. The payback for the premium you're charged usually occurs in the late-second or early-third year of ownership. Figure out the total cost, Cynthia. Add in the premium for the hybrid tech versus the cost of a high-efficiency gasoline or new-tech diesel.
I am having a very frustrating time with my 1998 Honda Odyssey - I have owned it for 3 years and it currently has 178,000 miles on it (I bought it with 60,000 miles and have maintained it religiously) and generally it runs very well.
Lately I have had a problem that no one can identify or resolve.
(The reader goes on to list a Byzantine set of things that this poor minivan does in traffic)
I have taken it to have the engine looked at (on the computer without any warning lights going on), no problem, I have had the transmission replace by AAMCO at 115,000 miles and two different shops looked at it and they cannot find any problems (one also had a hand held unit that he plugged into the car's computer) then I took it to Midas to have the brakes looked at, thinking the brakes are grabbing and they cannot find any problem.
I love the vehicle and 75% of the time it runs GREAT - but I hesitate to drive any distances now since this problem has cropped up.
A friend suggested that I have an aftermarket transmission cooler installed since it could be a transmission problem. Another suggested that the brake lines are crimping and that is why the brakes grab. I constantly check the oil, transmission and brake fluid levels every time I fill up (which is at least twice a week since my daily round trip to work is almost 90 miles).
Do you have any idea's?
Michael L.
Hmmmmm… perhaps you should read the letter above, Michael. As for working well 75 percent of the time, with 178K miles (isn't that seven times around the world?) on it I think I'd be thankful! (But seriously folks) Michael, it sounds like your Odyssey needs some major lovin' by someone who knows them better than the people who have seen it thus far in its glorious and voluminous past. Suggestions from a friend might be well-meaning, but diagnosis by a pro sounds more like what you need. I can't do a laying-on-of-hands from my computer, but I understand you need some help. See a Honda pro… soon. From the money you've put into it, coupled with the incredibly large incentives in the new-car market, maybe it's time to put your dollars into something more reliable and with a warranty.
I look through your q and a sections every once and a while. Why do you stress returning cars back to the OEM dealership? why not an independent repair shop? Do you have any idea how advanced some of the local repairshops are? do you know how well some of them are trained to meet the automotive needs? I know there are some poorly trained and staffed independent repairshops. I have also heard some very nasty stories generated from OEM dealerships
Steve T.
You're right in several respects. I know that there are some of the smaller repair shops that do excellent work and have near-up-to-date technology and yes, I've certainly heard "nasty stories" that were born of work at a dealership. But let's look at this as if you were going to Arlington Park for a day of racing. What do you do when you arrive? You buy a program, perhaps a scratch sheet of some type because you want to know where to place your bets. Why? Because you want to place your money on the safest bet you can.
It's the same thing with the repair suggestions I read about in my mail daily. Percentage wise, an average customer with no long-term ties to an independent repair shop is far more likely to get professional, state-of-the-art service from factory certified technicians in a franchised new-car dealership. Dealers spend an incredible amount of time and monetary resources that are required by their respective manufacturers to make sure that the diagnostic and repair equipment they use is the newest and most effective for the customer.
The reasons for this are multiple. Did you ever wonder why some dealers get more of that "special" car that everyone is looking for? The better the dealer does in customer satisfaction surveys conducted by the manufacturers can sometimes play into their new-car allocation. Far beyond that, though, is the long-term relationship that the dealer is able to build with the customer. It's always far easier to keep a customer than to convert one, so the dealer has a vested interest in making sure that from the time the new car rolls off the lot to the time it returns to be traded, the relationship is nurtured. Great service is the link.
So are there worthy independent garages? Of course, but when I'm spending my bucks at the betting window, I'm going to go with the best track record I can find—and for me that's the dealer who works with my brand and model every day they're open.
m considering a Cadillac STS or an STS-V. I'd like to know what your thoughts are. I have noticed that there are several new 2006 'V's still in inventory. I am large, 6'4" and 220# the STS was comfortable in the test drive. Thanks for your thoughts
Guy
If I were in the sedan market, the STS (and the steroid-injected "V" model) would absolutely be on my shopping list. I'm a tall guy, too (6'3"), but I've learned that how that length is distributed makes a difference in which cars feel comfy. Some folks are long-legged while others have long torsos, making headroom a premium consideration. The STS fits my needs well, and I can recall (in a back-to-back comparison) scooting an STS-V Caddy around Elkhart Lake's Road America track a few seconds faster than a full-on BMW 5 Series V8. I was impressed with the power, handling, fit, finish and eye appeal. It's a heck of a package.
Your guest, a Chrysler employee, (Jeep CJ's were built by Willys in the early 50's) referred to the Jeep "Wrangler" that was featured on the old Roy Rogers TV show. IT WAS NOT A WRANGLER.
It was a early 50's CJ . And it is NOT in California. "Nelly Belle" is housed at the Roy Rogers Museum in Branson, Missouri.
Mike
Actually, Mike, it was a 40's-era CJ-2a. I was partially correct on where it is and was helped my radio compadre' Jake Hartford who told me that it used to be in a museum in California. It was there until it moved in 2003. I did not know it moved to Branson. I hear now that it's used by Yakov Smirnov when he's feeling like a Russian cowboy. Yaaaaaaaaaa-hooo-ski, comrade!!!
I am presently leasing a 2003 Cadillac CTS (12K miles) with all the toys and whistles. My lease expires at the end of November with a buyout if I so desire of $20,600.00. As you can see we are not the traveling kind. With the prices of Cadillac these days, I am contemplating buying this vehicle at the lease end. Would you recommend buying this present vehicle or giving up Cadillac for a Nissan Altima? I know there is a big difference between the two and we’re very satisfied with the CTS. I know this CTS still has a great many good miles left on it, but your opinion woulld help a great deal.
Marvin
In situations of lease return I normally recommend that you turn in the car and get something new, but in your case I'm going to change that due to the extremely low mileage. Additionally, it sounds that it has been trouble-free and you obviously like the car, so this is a one-foot putt for me: Keep it. The sad part is that you'll again have to pay Illinois sales tax on the buyout figure, but I still think it's the way to go.
QUESTION: I have a 2003 Chevy Corvette. The vehicle came with Mobil 1 oil in the crankcase and I change the oil (on average) every 1500-2000 miles. Should I be using Mobil 1 or the Pennzoil synthetic that the service centers offers?
WSP
First off, I think you're spending too much on oil if you're changing synthetics that often. While the expense of synthetics is more, the benefits are rather broad. Among them are longer oil life and better engine protection. Check with your local Chevy dealer (where you should be getting your car's service done regularly, but you know that) about your oil change intervals or—and I know this is a novel concept—actually READ THE MANUAL to find it. I'm glad you're guilty on the side of over-changing rather than letting your engine's life-blood turn to goo, but I don’t want you to waste your money, either. As for brand, I use Mobil 1 in my car. Why? Because right there on the engine is a sticker for it from the manufacturer that says "We used this…. You should, too." I don't like to argue with stickers.
We are moving out to the suburbs and my fiance (having lived the in the city all of her life) has very limited experience driving a car. I am going to enroll in driving classes with Adams and then to get her licence.
On the car front, I am looking at getting her into a first car at or around $10K (used). I like Hondas and Toyotas as well as up for any other recommendations. I doubt for that price we are going to see any cars that still quailify for the pre-owned and pre-certified programs out there, but let me know! Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!
Sean
First off, I like that you're going to get her some instruction that isn't coordinated by you! It's kind of like teaching a friend how to play golf. Two things happen: You lose your friend and your friend has just inherited every bad thing you know about the game of golf! Driving isn't much different. It's best to get a dispassionate third party to help her learn good defensive and pro-active habits behind the wheel. It might be jumping the gun a bit, but most likely not, in also recommending that after she has a year behind the wheel of normal city driving, you should both go take a course in high performance driving. To go fast? No, to learn better what the car will do-and how the driver will react-in situations where control and stability are most important. Getting the "feel" of your car as the ABS kicks in (Have you ever just STOMPED on and HELD the brakes and found out what happens? You'd be surprised!), or some of the more advanced stability control systems that are becoming more and more common on today's vehicles is a real asset to the safety of driver and passenger. I know we've had a mild winter so far, but when the snow hits (and we know it eventually will... ACK!) take her to an empty parking lot and let her feel what it's like when the car starts to slide or spin or not brake as well. Good experience!
As to your car question, I think you'll be able to purchase a car in your price range with factory certification. Do a search of www.DriveChicago.com and I bet you'll come up with more than you'd expect. I'd also not limit your search to two brands only. Expand your search to include some domestic products, as the warranty programs on them have expanded dramatically over the past two years and the initial cost and residual values are lower, making it more affordable for you as the customer.
I am considering purchasing either a Pontiac GTO (automatic trans.) or a Mustang GT (also automatic). Which car would you recommend? Thank you.
Tom
That's an easy putt. I'd buy both! (But seriously, folks) It depends on a lot of factors. You've chosen one car, the GTO, where there is no choice of powertrain. You're going to get a rocket ship. With the Mustang, you'd have a choice of everything from a very competent 6-cylinder engine to a steroid-injected, fire-breathing automotive version of hell on wheels. The retro-styling of the Mustang (which by the way is scheduled for a major re-do in '08) is a major touchstone for Baby Boomers who fell in love with the first generation Pony Car in the Sixties. The GTO, on the other hand, is much more modern in its approach to styling and, sadly, will be discontinued after this year. I don't think there's going to be a "collectability factor" with the GTO, as their production totals were strong enough to prevent that from happening. I think they'd both be fun to drive. My suggestion is to drive them back-to-back with two appointments at your local dealership. Find the one that gives you more tingles in your spine and your question will be answered.
Which small SUV has the least physically wide body?
Penny
Penny, while I just adore doing multiple-vehicle numeric research for readers and listeners (I'd rather re-enlist!), I'm pleased to let you know that the good folks at Consumer Guide have an entire team of people who, with micrometers and laser measurement equipment of all types, measure such dimensions with the utmost of care. They even have it listed in the back of their excellent guide books by segment and class. Amazing! So hie thee on to you favorite local bookstore where you can find the latest and greatest from the CG folks and you'll | | | |
